(Photo: Kang Kim for New York Magazine. Illustrations by John Burgoyne.)

Just like ramps, asparagus, and Shack Burgers, eggs have a season. Of course, you can get them year-round at your corner deli and local Greenmarket, but official egg-laying season begins in spring, when chickens—prompted by increasing daylight—bump up their production cycle. Connoisseurs say that eggs from contented, pasture-raised hens taste best and are, for lack of a better word, eggier, not to mention more nutritious. If that’s not enough incentive to get cracking, consider this recipe from George Weld, reigning grill-maestro at Williamsburg’s best breakfast joint, the aptly named Egg. Then click here for a primer on what to look for in a high-quality egg, where to find them, and a list of our favorite egg dishes, gathered from a handful of local chefs increasingly besotted by them. They’re not just for breakfast (or Easter) anymore.

George Weld’s Eggs Rothko
2 tablespoons butter
2 thick slices of brioche or challah
2 large or extra-large eggs
1 cup good-quality Cheddar, like Grafton, grated

Place oven rack in lowest position and preheat oven to broil. Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium heat until it begins to foam. Place brioche slices in the skillet, moving them around until well-buttered and browned. (1) Using a biscuit cutter or drinking glass, press a hole in the center of each bread slice and discard the cutout rounds. Divide the remaining tablespoon of butter between the 2 holes in the bread. (2) When butter begins to foam, crack an egg into each hole and cook until the egg whites set about halfway up the sides of the yolks. Flip the bread with a spatula and cook for another minute or so. (3) Remove bread from skillet and place onto a broiler pan. Spread grated cheese thoroughly over the bread, covering as much surface area as possible to prevent the bread from burning, and place pan under the broiler. Remove as soon as the cheese is melted. Serve with broiled tomatoes or a simply dressed green salad.

Related:

• Archive: “In Season”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Apr 9, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!