(Photo: Kang Kim. Illustration by John Burgoyne.)

Short and squat, with a warty complexion, the Kirby may be the ugly duckling of the cucumber world, but it’s also the best for pickling—and when it comes down to it, aside from being sliced and tossed into a Pimm’s Cup, isn’t pickledom the highest office a cucumber can aspire to? Find them near their slender, smooth-skinned cousins at just about every other Greenmarket stand right now, and then try them in this recipe from Ed McFarland of Ed’s Lobster Bar. You’ll be doing them a favor.

Ed McFarland’s Pickles
6 small Kirby cucumbers
4 cups water
1 cup pickling or kosher salt
3/4 cup sugar
4 habañero peppers
2 cups red-wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/8 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
3/4 teaspoon coriander
1 allspice berry
3/4 teaspoon mustard seed

For the brine: (1) Using a knife or, preferably, a mandoline, slice the cucumbers approximately 1/8 inch thick. In a large nonreactive bowl or plastic container, mix the water, salt, and 1/4 cup of the sugar with a whisk. Add the cucumber slices and the whole peppers to the mixture, thoroughly covering them with the brine. Cover container and let stand for 12 hours. (2) Remove cucumber slices and peppers from brine and rinse well with cold water. For the pickling mix: Combine the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, vinegar, garlic, and spices in another nonreactive bowl or plastic container. (3) Add the cucumber slices and peppers. Cover and refrigerate for 5 hours before serving. Pickles should last refrigerated up to 60 days.

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