(Photo: Kang Kim. Illustration by John Burgoyne.)

Like the increasingly ubiquitous practice of putting a new restaurant through a lengthy “soft opening” trial run, summer is merely a warm-up for the fig’s splashy fall showing. The season runs from June to October, but the fruits are at their sweetest, earthiest best now. Drizzle them with honey, wrap them in bacon or prosciutto, stuff them with goat cheese, or try them in this excellent autumnal recipe from Eleven Madison Park chef Daniel Humm.

Daniel Humm’s Glazed Black Mission Figs With Fall Spices
24 Black Mission figs
½ cup Banyuls vinegar (available at Dean & DeLuca)
¼ cup port
¼ cup water
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons honey
Juice and zest of 1 orange
4 cloves
3 whole star anise
2 pieces cardamom
1 vanilla bean
1 pinch nutmeg
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 350. (1) Wash the figs and score them from the top about ½-inch deep, and place in a gratin dish. Combine the vinegar, port, water, sugar, honey, and orange juice. Bring to a boil and reduce by half. Add orange zest, spices, and butter. (2) Pour the hot liquid over the figs (they should be covered about halfway). Place gratin dish in oven. (3) Continually baste the figs with the syrup while in oven. Cook the figs for about ten minutes, until the tops have a good glaze. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Serves 6–8.

Related:

• Archive: “In Season”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: October 8, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!