Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Hello, Moto

ShareThis

Strangely, none of this food finds its way onto Morimoto’s omakase menu, which costs $120 and is worth every penny. By definition, of course, omakase changes according to the chef’s whim, but the one I enjoyed included steamy pots of freshly made tofu larded with truffles, portions of rose-colored hairy crab flown in from Hokkaido, and tastings of fugu salted with monkfish liver or batter-fried in a style the chef describes as “Kentucky Fried Fugu.” The desserts on the regular menu include a soufflé ingeniously flavored with red miso, and a chiffon-colored square of tofu “cheesecake” decked with shavings of chocolate. But none of these items had quite the impact of the final act of Morimoto’s omakase. This was a simple bite of persimmon, flash-frozen in liquid nitrogen and served with a tiny silver spoon. It was as hard as a walnut but melted, as you ate it, to a kind of smooth, fruity sweetness. The result was subtle, ingenious, and refreshing, which is to say it was about as different from your average Godzilla-restaurant dining experience as it could possibly be.

MORIMOTO
Address: 88 Tenth Ave., nr. 15th St.; 212-989-8883
Ideal Meal: Chef’s omakase; soft-shell-crab roll; pork kakuni; “Duck, Duck, Duck”; tofu “cheesecake.”
Note: The Great Japanese Godzilla-Restaurant Battle encompasses restrooms, too. Not surprisingly, the toilets are fully automated, and the perfumed stalls pleasantly decorated with orchids.
Hours: Dinner daily, 5 p.m. to midnight.
Prices: Appetizers, $9 to $23; entrées, $23 to $98. Omakase, $120.
Scratchpad: The main dining room gets two and a half stars, the sushi gets three, and the omakase gets four. So we’ll give this gifted chef our Excellent rating, provided he doesn’t abandon the joint for his other far-flung restaurants once the reviews come out.


Related:

Advertising

  • Ethereal
  • Exceptional
  • Excellent
  • Very good
  • Good
  • Not Recommended
  • Very Expensive
  • Expensive
  • Moderate
  • Inexpensive
  • The Categorical Best
  • Excellent
  • Generally Delicious
  • Very Good
  • Noteworthy
Advertising