The standard, non-Wagyu, non-grass-fed beef at Craft Steak seemed pretty ordinary to the assembled panel of beef eaters at my table, and so did the more steak-centric side dishes, like soggy, street-fair-quality onion rings flecked with mustard seed, and greasy, overbattered zucchini blossoms. Get the cipollini to go with your beef, or the fresh spinach, or, best of all, the farro, which is larded, in accordance with current gastronomic fashion, with lots of pork. The desserts are similarly constructed for maximum richness and include a do-it-yourself ice-cream sundae (you can bombard it with chocolate sauce, dried cherries, or chunks of brownie) and excellent freshly baked sugar doughnuts, which come with a thick blueberry sauce. The highbrow chocolate soufflé is pretty good, too, and so is the rhubarb napoleon, a delicately layered construction reminiscent of Karen DeMasco’s desserts at Craft. Is it on a par with those great DeMasco creations? Of course not. In the theatrical world of restaurants, the rerun is rarely as good as the original.

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