Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Gemütlich Time

ShareThis

At this early date, Trestle on Tenth has many of the trappings of an old-shoe neighborhood joint. The bar is a genial space, where you can enjoy frothy glasses of Corsendonk Brown Ale from ­Belgium or bottles of the excellent Swiss beer La Brasserie des Franches- Montagnes ($18). Then there are the hurried, somewhat thin desserts, which taste the way desserts often taste in smaller neighborhood restaurants without a high-priced pastry chef in the kitchen. You can get a standard ­strawberry-ice-cream sundae served in a tall, frosty glass, and a wheel of chocolate cake made vaguely interesting by a puddle of sweet cream sauce spiked with Trappist stout. The most novel dish of the bunch is a thick-crusted walnut pie from Switzerland called a Nusstorte, served with a little cloud of whipped cream. The most satisfying is the simple selection of sliced summer fruit (plums, raspberries, nectarines). They’re served in a blue porcelain bowl and folded with acacia honey, which, presumably, is just the way Kuettel likes it.


Trestle on Tenth
242 Tenth Ave., at 24th St.; 212-645-5659

Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Friday, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner, Tuesday though Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m.; Sunday to 10 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers, $8 to $13; entrées, $18 to $25.
Ideal Meal: pork crépinette, stuffed veal breast, gratinéed pizokle, Nusstorte.
Note: Kuettel’s wife is the wine director at Gramercy Tavern, which may be why the modestly priced, Eurocentric list is so well chosen.
Scratchpad: I don’t know if I’d travel miles for a taste of this hefty alpine cooking, but I’d be happy to have it in my neighborhood.


Related:

Advertising

  • Ethereal
  • Exceptional
  • Excellent
  • Very good
  • Good
  • Not Recommended
  • Very Expensive
  • Expensive
  • Moderate
  • Inexpensive
  • The Categorical Best
  • Excellent
  • Generally Delicious
  • Very Good
  • Noteworthy
Advertising