The service can be achingly slow at the new Tasting Room, and in the big new room, the intimacy that comes with dining in a small space is lost. But if you wish to tap into what Greenmarket cooking was like before everyone tried doing it, this isn’t a bad place to be. The desserts tend to be familiar recipes, prepared with all due attention to detail, and a subtle twist. I liked most of them, particularly a deconstructed lemon meringue pie (with a light almond cookie crust), and a smooth rendition of peach cobbler, topped with ice cream flavored with peach leaf. There’s also a rich dark-chocolate torte, served with a crunchy caramel sauce, and cheesecake, made with crème fraîche, muddled with strawberries. For the ultimate in barnyard chic, however, try the brioche bread pudding, garnished with Honey Crisp apples, and splashed, in high country style, with a hint of Calvados.

The Tasting Room

Address: 264 Elizabeth St., nr. Houston St.; 212-358-7831
Hours: Dinner, Tuesday through Thursday, 6 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday until 11. Sunday until 9 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers, $8 to $22; entrées, $24 to $40.
Ideal Meal: Cold roast lamb shoulder, guinea hen, roasted porcinis, bread pudding.
Note: The menu changes constantly, but the excellent cocktails remain the same. Try the Dark and Stormy, made with home-brewed ginger beer.
Scratchpad: Two of the meals here were two-stars good, one wasn’t good at all. I’m willing to give this seminal foodie couple the benefit of the doubt.

Related:

• Archive: “Restaurant Review”
• Articles by Adam Platt
• Table of Contents: Oct 2, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!