The Restaurant Review

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Gramercy Rehab

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Gilt is a pricey, old-world kind of restaurant, and although its refined, even haughty tone has not changed, there's nothing stodgy or old-world about Lee's cooking. His version of beef Wellington is stuffed with yellowfin tuna, instead of beef, and cut in little wheels, like a decorative sushi roll from Japan. That gourmet warhorse, the lamb chop, is given a slightly Moroccan twist (it's flavored with preserved lemons and served with falafel filled with fat golden raisins), and if you order sturgeon, it comes with a crème fraîche sauce dotted with caviar, and little bite-size pillows of smoked potato gnocchi.

The desserts I sampled included an architecturally impressive chocolate coupe (with salted caramel ice cream), and a delicious concoction of bananas, honeyed ice cream, and a sesame tuile that was called "Jasmine Crème Caramel." Sadly, the pastry auteur who created these treats left the restaurant a week or so ago. Apparently, he was prone to outbursts of temper in the kitchen. His replacement in the ensemble is rumored to be less excitable, but just as good.

Gramercy Tavern
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Address: 42 E. 20th St., nr. Park Ave. S.; 212-477-0777
Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday noon to 2 p.m. Dinner, Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers, $11 to $16; entrées, $21 to $25; vegetable tasting menu, $82.
Ideal Meal: Smoked trout, roast rack of pork and braised belly or braised lamb shoulder, warm chocolate bread pudding.
Note: Try a vintage beer like the '98 Crustacean, from Belgium.
Scratchpad: We've had Gramercy Tavern pegged as a two-star restaurant for years, but Anthony lifts it a notch.

Gilt
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Address: 455 Madison Ave., at 50th St.; 212-891-8100
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 10:30 p.m.
Prices: Three-course prix fixe, $78; five-course prix fixe, $105.
Ideal Meal: Yellowfin tuna or foie gras, tuna Wellington, chocolate tart.
Note: If you are feeling flush, request the $18 "monkey picked" tea from Anxi province, in China.
Scratchpad: We gave the restaurant three stars with Liebrandt in the kitchen. With Lee's arrival, we see no reason to change our minds.