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Eleven Madison Light

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This excellent NoMad chicken lacks the ceremony and the grandeur of the Eleven Madison version, of course. This is a hotel restaurant, after all (the proprietors of NoMad also own the Ace Hotel about a block away), which means Humm’s team is responsible for room service and a whole host of high-volume party events. As a result, there’s a vague assembly-line feel to the proceedings that is compounded by the prices. The French Snob was complimentary about the wine list but objected to paying $23 for a glass of Burgundy (David Duband ’09) that cost $40 a bottle at the Brooklyn Wine Exchange. I, meanwhile, objected to my apple dessert, which consisted of a cap of brioche piled over apple sorbet for $14. So try the densely rich chocolate tart instead or another Eleven Madison spin­off called Milk & Honey ($13), which was a refined dessert intermezzo item at the mother ship but is constructed at this populist restaurant like an ice-cream sundae, with spoonfuls of milk ice cream, dehydrated milk foam, and a drizzling of buckwheat honey.


NoMad
1170 Broadway, nr. 28th St.; 347-472-5660
Hours: Dinner Sunday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m. Lunch daily noon to 2 p.m. Breakfast daily 7 to 10 a.m.
Prices: Appetizers, $14 to $24; entrées, $20 to $78.
Ideal Meal: Snow peas, egg or bone marrow, asparagus, chicken for two, Milk & Honey.
Note: The elaborate breakfast menu includes a $24 version of eggs Benedict made with hollandaise and freshly cracked crab.
Scratchpad: Three stars for the high-quality hotel cooking, minus a star for the extravagant hotel prices.


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