Restaurant Review

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Would it be demeaning to Skeen and Resto to lavish the most praise on the burger? Maybe. But this one is world-class, a loosely packed, modestly sized house-ground masterpiece of beef cheek, hanger steak, and fatback, nicely accessorized with onion, pickle, mayo, and slightly pungent Timberdoodle cheese from Vermont, all on a squishy white bun from Rockland Bakery. It might be the best burger in New York, including Shake Shack’s.

With most entrées under $20, Resto’s regular menu handily fits an Underground Gourmet’s budget, but opportunities to splurge do arise, especially in the form of chalkboard specials designed for couples or groups to share. There have been curry-roasted poulardes for $55, and a $100 côte de boeuf, all of which lend a chummy conviviality to the proceedings. For dessert, you can sample a variety of Belgian chocolates, or choose between two types of waffles, and at brunch, despite a delicious and virtuous egg-white frittata and a tasty chicken sandwich, the two words you’ll want to commit to memory are “Dutch baby,” a tender skillet-baked pancake. In the spirit of a true neighborhood place, Resto aims to serve food continuously, with an abbreviated late-night menu. Because who knows just when the craving for a Timberdoodle burger and some crispy pork toast might strike?

Resto
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Address: 111 E. 29th St., nr. Lexington Ave.; 212-685-5585
Hours: Tuesday through Friday 4 p.m. to 1 a.m; Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday 10:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers, $8 to $14; entrées, $13 to $22.
Ideal Meal: Deviled egg, cheeseburger or beef-cheek carbonnade, raspberry-mango parfait.
Note: Don’t miss the late-night menu’s superb tête de cochon sandwich.
Scratchpad: With its act together in the kitchen and on the floor, Resto makes a strong four-star showing right out of the gate, with five-star potential.