The Orchard.   (Photo: Jeremy Liebman)

1. 1. The Orchard

   162 Orchard St., nr. stanton St.; 212-353-3570

   John LaFemina (ápizz), branches out from his strictly Italian roots with pan-seared foie gras, poached halibut with black-bean salad, and flatbreads topped with everything from steak tartare to duck confit.

2. 2. Zucco: Le French Diner

   188 Orchard St., nr. Houston St; 212-677-5200

   Zucco’s menu features tasty sandwiches on crusty baguettes and entrées like cassoulet, moules marinières, and grilled tuna à la Provençale—what the owner shruggingly refers to as typical French truck-stop fare.

3. 3. Falai Panetteria

   79 Clinton St., at Rivington St.; 212-777-8956

   This bakery-café, the casual spinoff of Falai up the street, serves soup and sandwiches at lunch, baked pastas at night, and some much-talked-about meatballs.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: February 27, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!