El Centro   (Photo: Jeremy Liebman)

1. 1. Mexicana Mama Centro

   47 E. 12th St., nr. Broadway; 212-253-7594

   As tiny as its West Village forebear and equally devoted to pork tacos and barbacoa beef burritos.

2. 2. Pio Maya

   40 W. 8th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-254-2277

   A loose affiliation with Park Slope’s Los Pollitos II reveals itself in moist rotisserie chicken, tasty tamales, and fresh green salsa.

3. 3. El Centro

   824 Ninth Ave., at 54th St.; 646-763-6585

   This spinoff of the nearby restaurant Hell’s Kitchen focuses on Mexico’s myriad street foods, from tacos to tamales, plus various versions of chilaquiles, posoles, and burros.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: March 6, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!