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El CentroPhoto: Jeremy Liebman

1. Mexicana Mama Centro47 E. 12th St., nr. Broadway; 212-253-7594As tiny as its West Village forebear and equally devoted to pork tacos and barbacoa beef burritos.

2. Pio Maya 40 W. 8th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-254-2277A loose affiliation with Park Slope’s Los Pollitos II reveals itself in moist rotisserie chicken, tasty tamales, and fresh green salsa.

3. El Centro824 Ninth Ave., at 54th St.; 646-763-6585This spinoff of the nearby restaurant Hell’s Kitchen focuses on Mexico’s myriad street foods, from tacos to tamales, plus various versions of chilaquiles, posoles, and burros.

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