Telepan   (Photo: Jeremy Liebman)

1. Barbuto

775 Washington St., at W. 12th St.; 212-924-9700

An old burger pro, Jonathan Waxman used to make the best in town at his short-lived Washington Park. Recently, he’s come out of retirement. Brunch only.

2. Telepan

72 W. 69th St., nr. Columbus Ave.; 212-580-4300

Not only does Bill “Greenmarket Man” Telepan have a burger on his new lunch and brunch menus—he also makes his own pickles.

3. Upstairs at Bouley

130 W. Broadway, at Duane St.; 212-608-5829

If you time it right, you’ll see the obsessive and brilliant chef himself take charge of the grill like a seasoned tailgater.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: March 6, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!