1. 1. Jadis

   42 Rivington St., nr. Forsyth St.; 212-254-1675

   A French mood prevails at this rustic brick-walled spot, where the light fare includes quiche, panini, and charcuterie.

2. 2. Petrarca Vino e Cucina

   34 White St., at Church St.; 212-625-2800

   Arqua’s owners transformed the X-rated Baby Doll Lounge into an upstanding wine bar and all-day café.

3. 3. Vin Noir

   228 Mott St., nr. Prince St.; 212-925-6647

   New in Nolita, serving appetizers like steak and tuna tartares and foie gras mousse.

4. 4. Vino Vino

   211 W. Broadway, at Franklin St.; 212-925-8510

   Part wine bar, part wine store, so you can sip before you shop.

5. 5. Epistrophy

   200 Mott St., nr. Spring St.; 212-966-0904

   A Sardinian couple’s ode to Thelonious Monk, with a menu heavy on pasta, panini, and salads.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Mar 13, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!