1. 1. Casa Mono

   52 Irving Pl., at 17th St.; 212-253-2773

   Nothing against chicken eggs, but Andy Nusser prefers the duck variety. He serves them sunny-side-up with a few slivers of dry-cured tuna and perched atop a stack of fingerling potatoes.

2. 2. Telepan

   72 W. 69th St., nr. Columbus Ave.; 212-580-4300

   Coddled eggs with collards and scrapple: It’s not just for breakfast anymore.

3. 3. Tocqueville

   1 E. 15th St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-647-1515

   The house eggs come from contented Araucana hens, and they’re served with root vegetables and black truffles in a Parmesan-infused broth.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: March 27, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!