1. 1. Defonte’s

   379 Columbia St., at Luquer St., Red Hook, Brooklyn; 718-625-8052

   The substantial specimens at this old-school takeout spot are served longshoreman style, in time-tested combos like potato- and-egg or roast- beef-mozzarella-and-fried-eggplant.

2. 2. Alidoro

   105 Sullivan St., nr. Spring St.; 212-334-5179

   Formerly known as Melampo, this tiny takeout shop was for years the home of the city’s most talented—and temperamental—Italian sandwich maker. His affable successor has made some cosmetic changes but, disciple that he is, continues to assemble the same spectacular sandwiches.

3. 3. Tony Luke’s

   576 Ninth Ave., nr. 41st St.; 212-967-3055

   Go for the thinking man’s cheesesteak, the “Roast Pork Italian” with provolone and broccoli rabe.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: April 3, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!