1. 1. Soft-Shell Crabs at Grand Central Oyster Bar

   Grand Central Terminal, lower level 212-490-6650

   Scooped up from the water before the blue crab’s new skin has time to harden, these Florida specimens come sautéed with garlic and butter for $29.95.

2. 2. Shad at Savoy

   70 Prince St., at Crosby St.; 212-219-8570

   Through April 9, the rich-flavored, bony American herring and its prized roe are celebrated with a $55 four-course menu ($75 with wine). The panna cotta is, mercifully, shad-free.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: April 3, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!