1. 1. Spicy & Tasty

   39-07 Prince St., Flushing; 718-359-1601

   The name says it all at this great Sichuan restaurant. From springy ma-la noodles to twice-cooked pork, the complex layers of powerful flavors are a revelation.

2. 2. Donovan’s

   57-24 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside; 718-429-9339

   A fine old Irish pub with a bar burger second only to Corner Bistro’s, and much-hailed fried onions.

3. 3. La Pollada de Laura

   102-03 Northern Blvd., Corona; 718-426-7818

   Seviche is the house specialty at this Peruvian hole-in-the-wall. Nearly as good: the sweet marinated rotisserie chicken.

4. 4. Sripraphai

   64-13 39th Ave., Woodside; 718-899-9599

   The defiantly delicious rebuttal to complaints that you can’t get good Thai food in New York.

Related:

• Archive: “Restaurant Openings & Buzz”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: May 1, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!