1. 1. Mary’s Fish Camp

   64 Charles St., at 4th St.; 646-486-2185

   The recipe is simple—just titanic hunks of lobster given the Hellmann’s treatment and shoved into a Pepperidge Farm top-loader. But the result is astonishing.

2. 2. Pearl Oyster Bar

   18 Cornelia St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-691-8211

   In style, quality, and sheer, ecstatic crustacean delight, virtually identical to Mary’s.

3. 3. The Mermaid Inn

   96 Second Ave., nr. Fifth St.; 212-674-5870

   In a neatnik break with tradition, Mermaid serves its lobster roll on a racy brioche hamburger bun.

4. 4. Tides

   102 Norfolk St., nr. Delancey St.; 212-254-8855

   A fine lobster roll from a Mary’s Fish Camp veteran.

5. 5. Ditch Plains

   29 Bedford St., at Downing St.; 212-633-0202

   The latest addition to the burgeoning clam-shack category, Ditch Plains serves a decent lobster roll from seven in the morning till 2 A.M.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: July 10, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!