1. 1. Rai Rai Ken

   214 E. 10th St., nr. Second Ave.; 212-477-7030

   This fourteen-stool ramen bar is known for its great cauldrons of steaming broth. But from May to September, they also serve delicious chilled noodles flavored with vinegar and soy and a variety of tasty toppings.

2. 2. Soba Nippon

   19 W. 52nd st., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-489-2525

   The noodles here are made fresh daily from buckwheat the owner grows in Canada and are as soothing cold as they are hot.

3. 3. Spicy and Tasty

   39-07 Prince St., nr. 39th Ave., Flushing; 718-359-1601

   Test the theory that lip-numbing food cools you down with “cold jelly Chengdu-style,” gelatinous noodles infused with a wallop of Sichuan pepper.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Jul 24, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!