1. 1. Cafe Fuego

   9 St. Marks Pl., nr. Third Ave.; 212-677-7300

   The owners are French-Canadian, but the chef is Cuban and so’s the food, from the archetypical pork sandwich to ropa vieja with rice and beans.

2. 2. 809 Sangria Bar & Grill

   112 Dyckman St., nr. Nagle Ave.; 212-304-3800

   You’re so close to the action at this ingeniously designed dining bar with its cutout nooks, they should give you an apron.

3. 3. Sofrito

   400 E. 57th St., nr. First Ave.; 212-754-5999

   Jimmy Rodriguez has rehabbed his old Jimmy’s Downtown, lowering the prices and showcasing Puerto Rican home cooking. The pernil is Flintstonian, the waitresses buxom, and the clientele Mets-heavy.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Aug 28, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!