1. 1. Oyster Bar

   Grand Central Terminal, 42nd St. and Vanderbilt Ave.; 212-490-6650

   They’ve been serving oyster pan roasts at the counter since way before Joël was born.

2. 2. Spice Market

   403 W. 13th St., at Ninth Ave.; 212-675-2322

   You’re so close to the action at this ingeniously designed dining bar with its cutout nooks, they should give you an apron.

3. 3. Hearth

   403 E. 12th St., at First Ave.; 646-602-1300

   The most coveted seats are at “the Pass,” the dining bar facing Marco Canora’s kitchen.

4. 4. Degustation

   239 E. 5th St., nr. Second Ave.; 212-979-1012

   Every seat in the house has a great view of the open kitchen where Wesley Genovart flits about like a young Iron Chef.

5. 5. Room 4 Dessert

   17 Cleveland Pl., at Lafayette St.; 212-941-5405

   Have something sweet here after a meal at Degustation for the ultimate downtown counter-dining experience.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Aug 28, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!