1. 1. The Waverly Inn

   16 Bank St., at Wavery Pl.; no (useful) phone

   Graydon Carter’s snug little boîte may not be officially “open,” but that doesn’t mean persistent scenesters can’t have a nice fireside dinner there and pay for the privilege.

2. 2. Per Se

   10 Columbus Cir., at 60th St.; 212-823-9335

   When Gordon Ramsay recently called Per Se “clinical,” Thomas Keller tut-tutted, “We have a natural-wood fireplace, wood and leather.”

3. 3. Molly’s Shebeen

   287 Third Ave., nr. 22nd St.; 212-889-3361

   A fine Irish pub with a toothsome burger and a cozy hearth.

4. 4. Savoy

   70 Prince St., at Crosby St.; 212-219-8570

   On occasion, they even cook dinner in the restaurant’s upstairs fireplace.

5. 5. Keens Steakhouse

   72 W. 36th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-947-3636

   They don’t roast the mutton over the pub-room fire, but don’t let that stop you from paying a visit.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Dec 18, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!