1. 1. Lupa Osteria Romana

   170 Thompson St., nr. Houston St.; 212-982-5089

   The annual “La Vigilia,” offered from noon to 10 p.m., includes eel in a sweet vinegar marinade and mullet cooked in a package; $75.

2. 2. Gusto Ristorante e Bar Americano

   60 Greenwich Ave., at Perry St.; 212-924-8000

   Amanda Freitag’s inaugural Gusto Christmas includes dishes like smoked swordfish and olive-oil-poached hake, plus three wine pairings; $125.

3. 3. Gonzo

   140 W. 13th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-645-4606

   Grilled-pizza maestro Vincent Scotto trades crusts for crustaceans with a four-course prix fixe; $60.

4. 4. Aroma Kitchen & Winebar

   36 E. 4th St., nr. Bowery; 212-375-0100

   This Noho spot takes a special interest in its wines, and so should you. The four-course feast is $95 with wine, $65 without.

5. 5. Patsy’s

   236 W. 56th St., nr. Broadway; 212-247-3491

   If your Christmas Eve is already booked, sample the seven fishes any night preceding it; $49.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: December 25, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!