1. 1. Maremma

   228 W. 10th St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-645-0200

   Inexplicably delicate lamb meatballs served as antipasti.

2. 2. Frankies Spuntino 17 Clinton

   17 Clinton St., nr. Stanton St.; 212-253-2303

   The two Franks serve them two ways: in a righteous pool of red sauce or as a toothsome sandwich on Sullivan Street Bakery pizza bianca.

3. 3. A Voce

   41 Madison Ave., entrance on 26th St.; 212-545-8555

   Some know Andrew Carmellini as a James Beard–awarded best chef; others know him for his duck meatballs.

4. 4. Bocca Lupo

   391 Henry St., at Warren St., Cobble Hill, Brooklyn; 718-243-2522

   Veal-and-porcini meatballs in tomato sauce ladled over a soft slice of bread, like a neo-Italian-American take on that diner classic the hot open-faced sandwich.

5. 5. ápizz

   217 Eldridge St., nr. Stanton St.; 212-253-9199

   Chef-owner John LaFemina wrote the book on the subject, literally—it’s titled A Man & His Meatballs.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: January 8, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!