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Pork and Beans, à la Française

In France, cassoulet has long been the subject of debate. Does mutton belong among the pig parts and preserved goose? Which beans are best? How many times is the crust broken (seven in Castelnaudary, eight in Toulouse)? Mercifully, New York chefs take a looser approach, catering to bean-stew classicists and modernists alike.

  1. 1. Savoy

    70 Prince St., at Crosby St.; 212-219-8570

    Cooked in the hearth and served through January 31, Savoy’s cassoulet combines duck confit, pork belly, house-made sausage, and braised lamb.

  2. 2. WD-50

    50 Clinton St., nr. Rivington St.; 212-477-2900

    Wylie Dufresne’s riff marries pressure-cooked pine nuts, smoked octopus confit, and house-made rabbit sausage.

  3. 3. Zucco: Le French Diner

    188 Orchard St., nr. Houston St.; 212-677-5200

    This “cassoulet de Castelnaudary” substitutes duck for what Larousse Gastronomique claims should be preserved goose, to equally rib-sticking effect.

  4. 4. Brasserie LCB

    60 W. 55th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-688-6525

    Jean-Jacques Rachou’s cassoulet has legions of fans and decades of history, but, alas, no baked-in-its-vessel, too-hot-to-handle crust.


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