1. 1. Savoy

   70 Prince St., at Crosby St.; 212-219-8570

   Cooked in the hearth and served through January 31, Savoy’s cassoulet combines duck confit, pork belly, house-made sausage, and braised lamb.

2. 2. WD-50

   50 Clinton St., nr. Rivington St.; 212-477-2900

   Wylie Dufresne’s riff marries pressure-cooked pine nuts, smoked octopus confit, and house-made rabbit sausage.

3. 3. Zucco: Le French Diner

   188 Orchard St., nr. Houston St.; 212-677-5200

   This “cassoulet de Castelnaudary” substitutes duck for what Larousse Gastronomique claims should be preserved goose, to equally rib-sticking effect.

4. 4. Brasserie LCB

   60 W. 55th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-688-6525

   Jean-Jacques Rachou’s cassoulet has legions of fans and decades of history, but, alas, no baked-in-its-vessel, too-hot-to-handle crust.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Jan 15, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!