- 1. Savoy
70 Prince St., at Crosby St.; 212-219-8570
Cooked in the hearth and served through January 31, Savoy’s cassoulet combines duck confit, pork belly, house-made sausage, and braised lamb.
- 2. WD-50
50 Clinton St., nr. Rivington St.; 212-477-2900
Wylie Dufresne’s riff marries pressure-cooked pine nuts, smoked octopus confit, and house-made rabbit sausage.
-
188 Orchard St., nr. Houston St.; 212-677-5200
This “cassoulet de Castelnaudary” substitutes duck for what Larousse Gastronomique claims should be preserved goose, to equally rib-sticking effect.
-
60 W. 55th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-688-6525
Jean-Jacques Rachou’s cassoulet has legions of fans and decades of history, but, alas, no baked-in-its-vessel, too-hot-to-handle crust.
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Pork and Beans, à la Française
In France, cassoulet has long been the subject of debate. Does mutton belong among the pig parts and preserved goose? Which beans are best? How many times is the crust broken (seven in Castelnaudary, eight in Toulouse)? Mercifully, New York chefs take a looser approach, catering to bean-stew classicists and modernists alike.
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