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Pork and Beans, à la Française

In France, cassoulet has long been the subject of debate. Does mutton belong among the pig parts and preserved goose? Which beans are best? How many times is the crust broken (seven in Castelnaudary, eight in Toulouse)? Mercifully, New York chefs take a looser approach, catering to bean-stew classicists and modernists alike. ... Read the story

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