1. 1. Naples 45

   200 Park Ave., at 45th St.; 212-972-7001

   Superb, undersung pizza sold by the individual pie or the half-meter, and a decent, mostly Italian wine list to soothe Mom’s or Dad’s nerves.

2. 2. Oms/b

   156 E. 45th St., nr. Third Ave.; 212-922-9788

   At this Japanese-rice-ball café, sushi rice is hand-patted into traditional and newfangled pucks, balls, and little logs, and filled or topped with everything from spicy tuna to ground beef. Limited seating.

3. 3. Sparks

   210 E. 46th St., nr. Third Ave.; 212-687-4855

   Show Junior where Big Paulie bit it, before he even got to order his porterhouse.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Apr 30, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!