1. 1. Shopsin’s General Store

   120 Essex St., at Delancey St.

   The inimitable Kenny Shopsin has resurfaced. Fans of his brusque manner and disconcertingly eclectic cooking will find both, in the stall adjacent to Saxelby Cheesemongers.

2. 2. Paradou Marché

   120 Essex St., at Delancey St.; 917-348-1210

   This sunny little kiosk— a spinoff of the meatpacking-district bistro—serves crêpes, pressed sandwiches, and prepared foods like summer salads and cassoulet in the winter.

3. 3. Casa Paradou

   120 Essex St., at Delancey St.; 212-477-4177

   Another Paradou enterprise, this one specializes in inventive fresh pastas and mix-and-match sauces to eat on the premises or to cook at home.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Jul 16, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!