1. 1. The Spotted Pig

   314 W. 11th St., at Greenwich St.; 212-620-0393

   The mother of all New York gastropubs, of course. The kitchen makes as much of seasonal vegetables as haddock chowder, and the burger is epic.

2. 2. Sheep Station

   149 Fourth Ave., at Douglass St., Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-857-4337

   Roomy Aussie pub at the bottom edge of the Slope, where the wines, the lamb, and the whole fish of the day (when it’s barramundi) all hail from Down Under. Don’t miss the minced-meat pie.

3. 3. The Inn LW12

   7 Ninth Ave., at Little W. 12th St.; 212-206-0300

   New York’s first and only Canadian gastropub. Signature dish: poutine—fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy.

4. 4. Alchemy

   56 Fifth Ave., nr. Bergen St., Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-636-4385

   Park Slope’s handsome, dimly lit answer to the trend. On the menu: Berkshire pork belly and beans, rabbit pot pie, and sticky Guinness toffee pudding.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite