1. 1. Centro Vinoteca

   74 Seventh Ave. S., at Barrow St.; 212-367-7470

   You may know her best from her stints as Iron Chef Mario Batali’s right-hand woman, but executive chef Anne Burrell also studied her craft at Felidia, Savoy, and in Italy.

2. 2. Morandi

   211 Waverly Pl., at Charles St.; 212-627-7575

   Keith McNally’s new trattoria is fitted out with vintage-tile-and-brick arches and ringed with shelves of Chianti bottles. In the kitchen is Jody Williams, whose regional Italian menu hits all the right rustic notes. Great breakfast, brunch, and lunch, too.

3. 3. Gusto Ristorante e Bar Americano

   60 Greenwich Ave., at Perry St.; 212-924-8000

   In a seamless transition, Amanda Freitag (late of Sette and ’Cesca) took over where original chef Jody Williams (now at Morandi) left off, imparting her carefully honed Italian style to the seasonal menu.

4. 4. Maremma

   228 W. 10th St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-645-0200

   Chef (and Chianina cattle rancher) Cesare Casella’s pastas are unfailingly satisfying, the lamb meatballs inexplicably delicate, and the trademark Tuscan fries irresistible.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Aug 13, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!