1. 1. Defonte’s

   379 Columbia St., at Luquer St., Red Hook; 718-625-8052

   Whatever you do, don’t ask for a panino. The substantial specimens at this old-school sandwich shop are known as heros, and they’re served longshoreman style, in outsize, time-tested combos like potato-and-egg and roast-beef-mozzarella- and-fried-eggplant.

2. 2. Alidoro

   105 Sullivan St., nr. Spring St.; 212-334-5179

   Alessandro “Melampo” Gualandi has hung up his apron, but his affable successor, Walter Momente, continues to assemble the same spectacular Italian sandwiches.

3. 3. Papa Lima Sandwich

   362 Bedford Ave., at S. 4th St., Williamsburg; 718-218-7720

   All the produce comes from the Greenmarket, the breads from Tom Cat Bakery, and the mortadella on the toothsome Jones Road hero from boutique salumi maker Fra’ Mani.

Related:

• Archive: “Food”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Nov 12, 2007 issue of New York | Subscribe!