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Illustration: Andy Friedman
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The Oblique and Indecipherable Phrase Self-Sustaining
Lets add line-caught while were at it. And hand-dived. And biodynamic.
Tableside Service
An elaborate retro ceremony designed with one purpose only: to add a few extra bucks to your already stratospheric bill.
Communal Dining Tables
A nice idea in theory. But in practice, New Yorkers arent as well mannered as Amish dairy maids.
Boutique Hamburger Bars
Whats the next low-food fetish? Gourmet oatmeal troughs?
Reservation-Only Cocktail Bars
If you have to make a reservation to sit at the bar, then its not a bar.
Gastropubs
The Spotted Pig can stay. The rest of you can hurry back across the Atlantic.
Paying $2 for Your Designer Steak Sauce
Is a thimble of Bourbon Peppercorn two bucks better than ketchup? Nope.
Pickle Jars As a Decorative Motif
Maybe in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. Not in Manhattan.
All Entrées Over $30
Especially considering were already paying $10 for a measly portion of green beans.




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