Illustration by Serge Bloch

Corton
The mercurial Paul Liebrandt finally strikes the right balance between invention and restraint.

Momofuku Ko
The atmosphere is stilted and the reservation system absurd, but the multicourse omakase is inspired.

Convivio
Michael White’s ode to the joys of Southern Italian cooking cements his reputation as the Mario Batali of midtown.

Dovetail
At long last, refined urban-barnyard cooking comes to the Upper West Side.

Scarpetta
In midtown, Scott Conant’s Italian food was polished but reserved. This casual new venue has unleashed his inner soul.

Commerce
A merry combination of hectic bustle and opulent culinary style. Unlike many Village hot spots, the quality lives up to the hype.

The John Dory
April Bloomfield’s new restaurant brings earthiness and heft to the tired old seafood formula.

Char No. 4
The vast bourbon selection will draw many to this little Smith Street outpost. The smoke-rich southern specialties will keep them coming back.

Adour Alain Ducasse
Stuffy French cuisine meets the Greenmarket revolution, with generally edifying results.

Persephone
A neighborly restaurant of the old school, with the owner taking coats at the door, and really, really good lamb chops.

Related:

• Archive: “Cover Story”
• Articles by Adam Platt
• Table of Contents: Jan 5, 2009 issue of New York | Subscribe!