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Illustration by Zoë More O’Ferrall
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The Great Scandinavian Craze
Yes, there’s a reason that the Viking King, René Redzepi, vacations in Mexico and is now foraging his mushrooms on the outskirts of Tokyo.
Cauliflower
This admirable but now ubiquitous menu item threatens to become the uni (or the pork butt) of the vegan age.
Hotel-Lobby Restaurants
I understand the grim economics of today’s rental market, but it gets a little depressing watching tourists trundle their bags to and fro, night after night, while you’re attempting to finish your chocolate pot de crème.
Chocolate Pots de Crème
Speaking of which, this dish is now officially the molten-chocolate lava cake of this prepotted, dessert-challenged age.
Restaurant Coffee “Programs”
Man the barricades! The barista hordes have sprung their twee-coffeehouse cages and are storming the restaurant gates.
Carefully Hewn Slabs of Black Slate As Dinnerware
These ungainly props looked sort of cool a decade ago, but not anymore.
Tipping
Most New Yorkers are happy to pay the often involuntary 20 percent. But it’s time to do it aboveboard, on the books, in an equitable, sensible way.
Mawkish Ye-Olde-Restaurant Nostalgia
In this dog-eat-dog restaurant town, the end of a long run should be celebrated, not mourned. Besides, when was the last time you actually sat down for dinner at Benny’s Burritos?
Pasta Bloat
I love a pasta dish as much as the next guy, but can we return to the simpler days when mushroom ravioli, or a good beef Bolognese, was only served in Italian restaurants and not with your beef burger?
Virgin “Mocktails”
An elaborate ruse designed to make us feel better about paying $12 for a glass of watery fruit juice.