At the just-finished run of fashion shows
in Europe, there was a new name on everyone's lips: Cipro. People
who used to swap dates of the latest shipments to the Balenciaga store
on the Avenue Georges V were busy trading the numbers of Parisian
doctors willing to hand out prescriptions. Welcome to the spring 2002
collections, where X-ray machines, metal detectors, and gun-toting
security guards were as prevalent outside the show venues as romantic
frills and furbelows were inside. Members of the audience last
seen vigilantly charting the turf wars between LVMH and the Gucci
Group were sharing the latest reports from CNN, and passing
around tattered thirdhand copies of the New York Times.
But if the new world order was difficult for the front-row set
to digest, it was even tougher for the designers. In New York after
the tragedy, collections were shown, with little fanfare, to scattershot
and shell-shocked audiences. While many editors and
writers made it to Europe, there were only a handful of New York
store buyers in attendance. (A big round of applause, then, for
Kal Ruttenstein of Bloomingdale's, Julie Gilhart of Barneys, and
Anna Garner of Henri Bendel.) Plus, designers had to grapple with
a seemingly unanswerable question: Do people even care about fashion
these days? The designers conceived and created their collections
before September 11, but they can only be seen in a post-tragedy
framework. Given the difficulty of predicting the clothes-buying
public's mood or the economy it's hard to know what
will look appealing on store racks a few weeks from now, let alone
when spring comes around.
Nevertheless (and at the risk of sounding superficial), there was
a lot of great, easy-to-enjoy fashion out there. The looming recession
had already made designers scale back on the theatrics and focus on
delivering clothes that women could actually wear. Now that impulse
seems all the more appropriate. The collections that were the freshest
fused the passions of the season romantic, ethnic, and pastoral
looks with a slick urban sensibility. Artsy-craftsy details
like smocking, patchwork, embroidery, and fringing got an extra jolt
when paired with the season's backbone-of-the-closet pieces: masculine
blazers, wide-legged pants, classic shirts.
Over the next few pages is the best of spring: the trends, accessories,
and must-have basics that if the designers, retailers, and
Mayor Giuliani get their way you'll be rushing out to buy in
a few months' time. There is, however, at least one purchase that's
worth making right now. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion for America
T-shirt, which went on sale last week at department stores and designer
boutiques citywide, costs a mere $22.50, with the proceeds going to
the Twin Towers Fund. It may not be the most expensive sartorial splurge
you'll make in the coming months, but it will undoubtedly be the most
meaningful.
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