Every twenty years it seems fondue swings back into vogue. Leading what is due to be this generation’s wave of decadent dipping is Café Select, opening a dedicated fondue room (212 Lafayette St., nr. Kenmare St.; 212-925-9322) in the back of its fashiony Soho restaurant. The vibe is Swiss alpine lodgea welcome update to fondue’s seventies-key-party or nineties-mall-chain habitats of yore. Chef Ingrid Roettele has improved on the form, too, with vats of tomato- and truffle-oil-laced Gruyère and Appenzeller. And for dessert, two words: liquid Toblerone.