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The light well in the ceiling (designed by Fisher Marantz Stone) has a disappearing edge lined with fiber-optic cable, attached to a chromatic wheel; the client has eight color options. Pulled up to the counter are forties leather-and-chrome stools from Wyeth. The hanging fixtures, porcelain sockets fitted with oversize European bulbs, on gray silk cords, are by B & G Antique Lighting

"We did this client's first starter loft. But in the time between that project and this one, he became a much better chef."— DD Allen.