Displaying all articles tagged:

Cathy Horyn

  1. pfw spring 2019
    Ghesquière Reverses the FerrariThe Louis Vuitton designer’s sudden move away from structure was more exciting than his talk of female empowerment.
  2. pfw spring 2019
    Fun, Fun, Fun With Karl’s Digital Beach BabesSimple pleasures at Chanel. Plus: McQueen’s ancient history; McCartney’s gift to Zara.
  3. pfw spring 2019
    The New Toughness Is Sure of ItselfMasculine/feminine at Givenchy. Plus: High-tech tailoring at Balenciaga; Thom Browne’s S&M WASPs.
  4. pfw spring 2019
    Rei Kawakubo Finally Gets PersonalThe 75-year-old legend finds another new direction. Plus: Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski comes into her own at Hermès.
  5. pfw spring 2019
    The Silliness and Sexiness of ParisOlivier Rousteing’s Balmain understands it. Plus: Loewe might be getting too relaxed.
  6. pfw spring 2019
    Rick Owens’s Female Vigilantes Are Ready to MarchFashion for dark days. Plus: Accessible sensuality at Chloé.
  7. pfw spring 2019
    Dries Van Noten’s Haute Sportswear Is PerfectThe designer’s gorgeous spring collection balanced grandness and ease. Plus: Marine Serre keeps it up.
  8. pfw spring 2019
    John Galliano and the Burden of AuthorityTo have it, a designer must stand for something.
  9. pfw spring 2019
    Gucci’s Arcades ProjectAlessandro Michele’s oddly timed but moving trip through Paris’s fashion history. Plus: Clever, effortless simplicity at Dior.
  10. lfw spring 2019
    Burberry Gets ProfessionalRiccardo Tisci’s first show for the British mega-brand was sober and adult.
  11. nyfw spring 2019
    Marc Jacobs Keeps the Volume Turned UpThe designer commits to size, and convinces. Plus: Effortlessly modernized de la Renta and muddled Kors.
  12. nyfw spring 2019
    Raf Simons’s Latest Blockbuster FizzlesThis time around at Calvin Klein, the designer’s movie references felt trite.
  13. nyfw spring 2019
    Proenza Schouler Discovers the American TraditionAn overdue move to classic sportswear; minimalist menswear at The Row; a new face at Herrera.
  14. nyfw spring 2019
  15. nyfw spring 2019
    Even Ralph Lauren Heeds the Call of This Political MomentThe superb clothes at the designer’s celebrity-stacked 50th anniversary sent a subtle message about American values.
  16. nyfw spring 2019
    Shock! Sex! Protest! Jeremy Scott Catches the MomentA strong collection reminds us that the designer has had a great, coherent career.
  17. nyfw spring 2019
    Tom Ford Gets Back to RealityThe designer’s show was as glamorous as ever, but this time his fabulous skirts had an uncommon ease, too.
  18. behind the scenes
    Cathy Horyn Travels to Germany to Understand the Unlikely Return of BirkenstocksA fashion fable, in which the cork-and-leather sandals become cool and double sales overnight.
  19. fashion
    A Museum Show Where You Can Wear the Art HomeThe Whitney’s Eckhaus Latta exhibit doubles as a clothing store.
  20. review
    All Aboard the S.S. ChanelYesterday’s cruise extravaganza looked into the past while contemplating the future.
  21. paris fashion week fall 2018
    Sometimes It’s Okay to Cater to the BourgeoisieNicolas Ghesquière makes a case for the strength of uncomplicated femininity in his new Louis Vuitton collection.
  22. paris fashion week fall 2018
    Even Karl Lagerfeld Knows That Times Are ToughHis subdued new Chanel collection seemed to nod to #MeToo and right-wing politics. Plus: Sarah Burton’s unique touch at McQueen.
  23. paris fashion week fall 2018
    How Technology Will Transform TailoringDemna Gvasalia’s 3-D-printing innovation shows the way at Balenciaga. Plus: Gorgeous old-fashioned tailoring at Thom Browne and Givenchy.
  24. paris fashion week fall 2018
    Camp vs. ClassicismRei Kawakubo’s notes on Sontag; Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski finally finds classical balance at Hermès; Altuzarra’s ease.
  25. paris fashion week fall 2018
    The Case for Apolitical FashionLoewe and Undercover make it convincingly.
  26. paris fashion week fall 2018
    The Genius of Martin MargielaA life-affirming museum retrospective reminds us of the mysterious Belgian designer’s huge influence.
  27. paris fashion week fall 2018
    Why Riccardo Tisci Is the Right Man for BurberryPlus: A sublime Margiela retrospective; special subtlety at Chloé and Lemaire.
  28. paris fashion week fall 2018
    Is Dries Van Noten the Last Sophisticated Designer in Paris?When his clothes have this balanced spontaneity, he might be. Plus: Sexy Saint Laurent; secure Margiela; abysmal Lanvin.
  29. paris fashion week fall 2018
    How to Make Political FashionMaria Grazia Chiuri’s clumsy feminism at Dior finds its moment, while Marine Serre shows a more subtle way to allude to contemporary issues.
  30. paris fashion week
    Clare Waight Keller’s Astonishing Haute-Couture Debut Was a Long Time ComingA Givenchy collection 25 years in the making.
  31. nyfw fall 2018
    Jacobs Fights the Bulls, Kors Goes for ShowbizThe last day of New York Fashion Week ended with two heavy hitters.
  32. nyfw fall 2018
    Raf Simons Goes to the MoviesThe Calvin Klein designer thinks like a director in his most complete show for the brand so far. Plus: Vaquera and Monse.
  33. nyfw fall 2018
    The Quirky Puritanism of the Olsen TwinsThe former child stars more than proved themselves as designers. Plus: Searching for hotness at Lam and de la Renta; good-bye to Carolina Herrera.
  34. nyfw fall 2018
    Uptown Flash, Downtown FunkHighly enjoyable shows by Brandon Maxwell and Gypsy Sport offered a split screen between slick polish and outsider roughness.
  35. nyfw fall 2018
    Cool Riffs on Fashion History at Wang and Eckhaus LattaElsewhere, Chris Leba at R13 and and Kerby Jean-Raymond at Pyer Moss tackled more political realities.
  36. nyfw fall 2018
    NYFW Is About Romance and $$$$ — and Not Much ElseStrong, albeit not innovative, shows at Bottega Veneta, Tory Burch, and the Brock Collection worked American fashion’s eternal themes.
  37. nyfw fall 2018
    Sexy, Comfortable, and Fun: Tom Ford’s TriumphThe designer’s best collection in some time is subtly in tune with the times. Plus: Narciso Rodriguez updates Dior.
  38. nyfw fall 2018
    A Feast for the Ages at Raf SimonsWaffles, flowers, and references to drugs made for a decadent and thrilling show.
  39. review
    The Couture Shows Satisfied a Craving I Didn’t Know I HadMaybe the most powerful thing right now is a perfectly shaped shoulder line.
  40. reviewed: louis vuitton and chanel
    How to Dress in 2018Nicolas Ghesquière’s blend of modern and classical at Louis Vuitton was the defining moment of the season. Plus: Chanel, Miu Miu, and Thom Browne.
  41. reviewed: alexander mcqueen and stella mccartney
    Fashion’s Human TouchWarm collections by McQueen and McCartney, along with some stellar exhibits, remind us that it’s not just technology that draws people to fashion.
  42. reviewed: givenchy and balenciaga
    Excavating Givenchy’s EssenceClare Waight Keller returns the brand to tailoring, promisingly. Plus: Gvasalia goes his own way at Balenciaga, and Philo gets personal at Céline.
  43. reviewed: junya watanabe and comme des garcons
    Two Punks Soften the SpikesJunya Watanabe explores wearable femininity; Rei Kawakubo pulls back from the avant-garde. Plus: Altuzzara in Paris still feels like New York.
  44. reviewed: loewe and undercover
    Art and Fashion Do MixUndercover incorporates Cindy Sherman’s aesthetic with more depth than fashion usually manages. Plus: Loewe’s grounded luxury.
  45. The Memory of FashionRick Owens evokes it brilliantly, while Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing stays on the surface. Plus: Loving Chloé’s new direction.
  46. reviewed: dior and dries van noten
    Fashion’s Millennial ProblemDior wants to reach them, but doesn’t know how. Plus: Lanvin’s decline, and deft touches at Margiela and Dries.
  47. reviewed: marc jacobs and by. bonnie young
    Marc Jacobs’s New Trend Is ElegiacDenying retirement rumors, New York Fashion Week’s guiding light produced a moving homage to fashion relics.
  48. reviewed: ralph lauren
    Ralph Lauren’s Bondian Reboot Revives His FranchiseAmid sports cars and sexy female villains, the designer’s best collection in some time.
  49. reviewed: helmut lang and oscar de la renta
    Reinventing de la Renta; Leering at Helmut LangYoung designers find fresh takes on storied brands. Plus: lush minimalism at The Row.
  50. reviewed: fenty x puma and victoria beckham
    Rihanna’s Biker Boys Stunt on Fashion WeekThe surfer/raver clothes at the singer’s Fenty x Puma show were pretty terrific, too. Plus: Victoria Beckham, Public School, and more.
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