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Charles Gabriel

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Alain Ducasse Tries to Win Our Love

New York City hasn’t been kind to Alain Ducasse. But after reading this week’s big feature on the world’s most-starred chef and his latest effort to make New York love him, we find it hard to believe that he doesn’t have a fighting chance. Adam Platt somehow manages to appreciate delicacy this week and gives Smith’s an enthusiastic two-star review. Finally, Rob and Robin bring us two things sure to warm the insides of any New Yorker in January: Charles Gabriel’s collard greens and the hot cocktails at three of New York’s best bars.

Southern-Style Chicken, and Very Southern-Style Chicken

In this week's Openings, Rob and Robin herald the appearance of two very different kinds of southern chicken restaurants: Pardo's, the latest in the burgeoning genre of Peruvian rotisserie places, and Charles' Southern Style Kitchen on Lenox Avenue, a new outpost of Harlem pan virtuoso Charles Gabriel's mini-empire. (Rack & Soul is another; here's our listing for the restaurant on 151st Street.) Both places trace their roots back to southern climes, and though we have yet to sample Pardo's, no one who has ever trekked to Harlem to taste Charles' pan-fried wonders has come back less than awed. (Also opening: Nespresso Boutique Bar, an espresso emporium owned a Nestlé subsidiary.) Openings: Pardo's, Nespresso Boutique Bar, Charles' Southern Style Kitchen [NYM]