With the Paris shows finally coming to a close, we had our spies — er, buyers — from Intermix and Bird send dispatches on their picks of the week. Sari Sloane, Intermix’s VP of fashion merchandising, loved Chloé's organza dresses and Stella McCartney's chunky knits.
If you're not already up to your neck in fashion, this fall you will be — literally. Sculpted, architectural collars turned neutral-toned coats into loud, dramatic pieces. Maison Martin Margiela’s beige blazer featured a deep V, exposing a bare chest offset by square shoulders, while Stella McCartney’s collar offered a wraparound variation (which doubles as a wool scarf for ultimate winter protection). And at Costume National, the funnel carved into a long black coat delicately drew attention to the face of Mariacarla Boscono. For fall, bundling up means you’ve got to go big.
By the end of Paris Fashion Week, models are beyond frazzled. They’ve strutting up and down catwalks for four weeks now, traveling like crazy and … well, we won’t even touch on their eating habits. After a hectic month of shows, the girls' minds might not be as sharp as they were at the beginning of February. They're tired, they're confused, they're prone to error. So at Miu Miu, Miuccia gave the girls a hand by putting their initials on each of the outfits, just to prevent any backstage dressing-area confusion. Always stylishly err on the side of caution, right?
• The Lanvin show celebrated the little black dress with lots of lovely details. [Telegraph]
• Marc Jacobs started the Louis Vuitton show on time, leaving attendees racing to their seats. The collection was a commercialized version of the better, more artistic collection he showed in New York — and the pants were awful. [WSJ]
Paris designers must be banking on a globally warmed fall season, as their cocktail dresses flashed unexpected bits of skin. In what was an otherwise oversize, cozy collection, Stella McCartney showed a foxy, metallic beaded number, with chains framing the shoulder. Nicolas Ghesquière spiced up an otherwise basic LBD with armbands instead of sleeves. And Givenchy's pastel frock, paired with gold gladiators, had a distinct Xena, Warrior Princess feel. —Kendall Herbst
Breaking news, people. Brace yourselves — we want you to remain calm. Are you sitting down? Okay, good. Now, deep breaths. If you need to picture your happy place, go ahead and do that. Whatever you need. Alright, here goes: Jessica Stam appears to have dyed her hair.
Here's a good one from Paris: It's not as if the scant body mass indexes on runways are good things. But the absurdity marches on, and still some strong-headed young things refuse to accept the conventions of modeling's narrow vision.
• Just 23 years old, Esteban Cortazar brought the "It" factor back to the house of Emanuel Ungaro. [Times]
• Dries Van Noten disappoints Cathy Horyn, and Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo makes her "think the trashiness, the allure and counterpoint of trashiness, is very interesting at the moment." [On the Runway/NYT]
The reviews from Paris Fashion Week are clogging the Internet with words that resemble English but don't necessarily make a lot of sense. That means it's time for another edition of "What They Really Meant," where we read the fashion reviews so you don't have to. You've worked hard enough today already.
There's cocaine at Colette! Through March 1 — the end of Paris Fashion Week — the Paris boutique's first-floor gallery will display Swiss artist Comenius Roethlisberger's exhibition of luxury-brand logos like Chanel, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent written in a mixture of cocaine and powdered sugar, adorably entitled "Dearest Constellation, Sweetest Invitation" (he's talking to you, Kate).
After winning the V magazine and Supreme Model Management’s “V a Model!” (get it??) contest, official new girl Amanda Laine has surprised everyone by quickly popping up on Milan runways. That's right — it seems possible to win a modeling contest and actually have a high-fashion career thereafter! Who knew?
Tomorrow Alessandra Fachinetti presents her first collection as the creative director of Valentino after the man himself retired earlier this year, making her "potentially, one of the most powerful women in the industry." She invited Valentino to her show and calls her collection "Valentino … with a twist," which she hopes will attract younger customers. [Telegraph]