What the Critics Said About Milan Fashion Week, and What They Really Meant
C'est chic!Photo: imaxtree
C'est chic!Photo: imaxtree
You know what? We're just going to go ahead and say it: Clearly some Europeans are hinting at war with Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Yesterday we learned Giorgio Armani said he was "indifferent" to her Bobness while he was standing onstage right next to her during a press conference for the Costume Institute Gala's "Superheroes" exhibit.
• Cathy Horyn thinks diversity on the runway is really important, especially since emerging markets like Russia, China, and Brazil are quickly becoming significant consumers of designer clothes. Horyn also writes of the Gucci collection, "It’s clear we can’t expect world-creating fashion from Frida Giannini." Ouch. [NYT]
Miuccia made our job easy today, since the Prada’s casting is the one to watch. And as the designer frequently does, she broke a star: Natalia Chabanenko, a pouty brunette who bookended the lineup and clenched today’s win.
What, exactly, is Giorgio Armani's problem this week? First he bans Cathy Horyn from his show in Milan, and then, this morning, he let his mouth run astray about Anna Wintour.
Get your fashion while it's hot — from the Milan runways, we mean. Please do indulge in today's latest shows; they're calorie-free, of course. • Have you heard about the black lace at Prada? Everyone is raving, and with good reason.
Models are supposed to blend into the background and let the clothes grab the attention. But after yesterday's mini-kerfuffle, in which it was discovered that some glazed-over soul at Style.com had confused photos of Chanel Iman for those of Jourdan Dunn, we were reminded that perhaps mannequins do the job a little too well and fashion insiders can't tell the girls apart. For shame!
This morning in Milan, the Met's Costume Institute held a press conference on its upcoming … oh, whatever, doesn't matter, it's something about superheroes. What matters is that Her Vogueness Anna Wintour attended, wearing the bright little Prada number pictured above. Cute, but is that not the exact same Prada dress she wore twice in weeks past at Armani Privé and Peter Som? Why, yes, yes, it is. If it works for Anna, then we suppose Anna can work it all she wants.
Roberto Cavalli is on the fast track to becoming fashion's Hugh Hefner: He's often embedded in a throng of hot ladies, and WWD reports today that not only is he opening nightclubs around the world, but Cavalli also has a television show in the works.
Milan is off to a lithe, pretty-faced start! Edita Vilkeviciute, who appears in the spring campaigns for D&G and Pringle of Scotland, pulled off surprise opener and closer at Burberry, more or less ousting the label's reigning queen, Agyness Deyn, from the glory roles.
• Cathy Horyn is in love again! She finds the black lace on Prada's coats, pants, and dresses "fascinating" in Milan. [NYT] • Suzy Menkes likes Prada's black lace too, calling it "original" and "intensely Prada in its mix of the prim and the perverse." [IHT]
• Bottega Veneta designer Tomas Maier was forced to start his show an hour late in Milan today after Ferragamo's late start backed up the day's schedule. On the upside, Maier's coats were marvels of geometric chic. [WSJ]
As you no doubt learned before your 12th-birthday, Manolo Blahnik is not just a shoe, but an actual human being. Today we are amusingly reminded that Mr. Blahnik is a real person, one who chooses words like "dreadful" when describing four top Hollywood actresses on the latest cover of a "smart society magazine." Well, censor he doth not.
Brace yourselves: Cathy Horyn was uninvited to the Giorgio Armani show in Milan. We repeat: Cathy Horyn was UNINVITED to Armani.
• New York saw hemlines rise, but Milan is watching hemlines fall. On the second day of Fashion Week, the long skirts at Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana didn't impress Suzy Menkes. [IHT]
Today's new runway slideshows fresh from the U.K. include Vivienne Westwood's return to London after nearly a decade away, pretty printed scarves, and some boots that have captured our hearts. • Vivienne Westwood's Red Label announces her return to punk with some of the coolest star-spangled tights we've ever seen.
London not only continues to welcome an eye for the offbeat, but also to embrace all different beauty ideals on the catwalk. Koreans! Jamaicans! Belgians! Ethiopians! Even oh-so-exotic Ohio was on the map (what up, Edythe Hughes).