The buzz at last night’s Vivienne Westwood show was that there wasn’t any. The show marked the dame’s first runway appearance in her hometown of London after an absence of nine years, and it was tipped as the show of the London season.
• Ass-electrocutionist Anne Slowey responds! The Elle editor commented on yesterday's post about her quest to flatten her posterior and boldly admits to merely imagining a phone call to her psychic. Or perhaps we misread? Whatever, the woman still electrocuted her tush. [Cut]
• In her first London show in ten years, Vivienne Westwood's highly anticipated return to the runway wasn't short on politics. One model walked with a placard protesting for the rights of Guantánamo Bay prisoners and Westwood took her bow in a blouse covered in protest badges. [Telegraph]
Lacking the big names of New York, Milan, and Paris, London Fashion Week is always about creativity. Once designers make a name there, they can move on to New York, as Preen and Jonathan Saunders have recently done. But aside from spotting future stars, the fun of the week really lies in the fact that "creativity" is often just another word for "freak show."
On Thursday, Fashion Week headed east to Hoxton, London's Billyburg equivalent, where London’s asymmetrically coiffed and skinny-jean-plastered demographic runs free. So we were hardly nonplussed to find their heroes, the MisShapes crew, making themselves at home at Henry Holland’s first solo show — which was held in a venue called, of all things, the Village Underground.
When we saw pictures of Agyness Deyn wearing neon shades whilst partying in London two nights ago, we instinctively assumed it was typical offbeat Deyn style (and, yes, we were also humming the classic Corey Hart hit — so Deyn can, so Deyn can), until we learned, moments later, that she's suffering from an eye infection! Kind of punk, no?
Finally, the clothes on the London runways are getting a little crazy, a look which defines London Fashion Week and is part of what makes it so great. Some observations:
• The geometric shapes and bright colors, especially one bright-blue coat at Aquascutum, happily remind us of Willy Wonka's factory.
• Betty Jackson also used bright colors but cleverly concealed buttons.
In the wake of last week's madness, Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn had a moment to catch her breath just long enough to nurse her flu and reflect on the direction of New York fashion. On her blog, she mentioned that illness had kept her from the Temple of Marc — an admission, it seems, that was enough to garner a response from the man himself.
Toward the end of Fashion Week, Amy Larocca crossed paths with Mary Kate Steinmiller, an editor at Teen Vogue. A Fashion Week veteran, Steinmiller claims that “you don’t even realize you’re going from show to show because there’s so much adrenaline.” However, she did concede that wearing heels for days at a time was rough: “Tomorrow, it might be a flat day.” See whom Steinmiller spotted at Miss Sixty by watching the Video Look Book.
• Naomi Campbell took a surprise stroll down the catwalk at London Fashion Week yesterday for Kisa. [Telegraph]
• As London Fashion Week nears its halfway point, trends emerge including Amy Winehouse eye makeup, cropped leather jackets, thick eye-skimming fringe, and thick-framed square glasses. The LFW quarters also boast a pub that serves, of all things, pie and mash and beer. [Times]
• We saw a lot of short skirts at New York Fashion Week, but Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab showed long hemlines in London yesterday. Bonus: Kane's highly anticipated show gets another rave review. [Guardian]
You know what it's like when you're at dinner with a bunch of people who work together and they start talking about that "report" or that "weird new girl" and you have no idea what they're talking about? In fact, they may as well be speaking another language? Well, fashion critics are the same way. Their reviews come out in a special breed of flowery, pretentious prose that — though fun to read because only they could come up with it — makes very little sense to fashion outsiders.
So we've selected some of our favorite New York Fashion Week excerpts from our favorite critics and translated them into language we hope you understand.
More runway galleries from London Fashion Week have arrived!
Top Shop has just what you need for your ugly-sweater holiday party next fall.
Christopher Kane traded those Versace-esque neons for really big sequins.
At the end of every Fashion Week, New York fashion director Harriet Mays Powell and fashion writer Amy Larocca gather to discern the major trends and styles coming out of dozens of runway shows. “Long and lean is the new silhouette for fall,” says Harriet. What else to look for in store windows? Watch the video before you go shopping.
Today marks the third day of London Fashion Week, and we're already envious of the front rows there. The celebrities look like they came from the "They're just like us" section of Us Weekly rather than the centerfolds of Vogue. Somehow, it just felt awkward to see celebrities in full-on red-carpet attire at 11 a.m in New York. (Think how you'd feel if your cubicle neighbor showed up dressed for Socialista rather than work.) But London is different, according to the Times.
• It's not just New York that's still buzzing about the dinner Madonna co-hosted with Gucci to raise money for UNICEF and Raising Malawi, a charity that helps orphans there. A Malawian minister said the country "owes her so much" and should allow her adoption of 2-year-old Malawian David Banda, which she has a final hearing on in April. [NYDN]
How do you get your hair to look like the models at Carmen Marc Valvo? It’s complicated you’ll definitely need another set of hands (or two). New York’s beauty and market editor Aja Mangum took our cameras backstage to learn the secret from stylist Odile Gilbert.
All Fashion Week we’ve pitted the bright-eyed rookies against the familiar runway beauties to determine the Model of the Week. Once again, our complex algorithm took into account the number of each model’s openings and closings at big shows as well as a general buzz factor in the tents.
Were you cold sleeping last night? Are your pockets deep? If so, consider getting in bed with Thom Browne. The designer is looking for a financial partner, according to WWD. He's not saving money on his fashion shows, nor would we want him to. After all, as Amy Larocca put it, "they are the only shows we've ever been to in which the audience frequently laughs out loud." Browne's spring/summer '08 show featured lifeguards and palm trees, and his fall '08 line, as Cathy Horyn wrote, "offered the long-awaited thrill of seeing two men share the same trouser leg." WWD takes care to note that Browne isn't acting out of financial desperation (Browne also designs the Black Fleece capsule collection of men's and women's clothes for Brooks Brothers, and his signature collection is sold at Bergdorf Goodman). Nevertheless, cold, wealthy folk looking for something original to put their money into could do a lot worse.
Thom Browne said 'Open' to Financial Partnership [WWD]