Lure Fishbar is rarely on anyone’s list of the city’s top seafood restaurants, and we always wondered why not. Chef Josh Capon’s end-of-summer appetizer of scallops and slab bacon just reinforces Lure’s strengths. “Even at the worst catering event in the world, scallops and bacon are good. To me they’re just good eating,” the salty chef says. “Our version is nothing too froufrou. But it’s a good plate, with a little bit of everything, and you should try to see if you can get it all in one bite.” Done and done. As always, mouse over the different elements to see them described in the chef’s own words.
Alaska’s Copper River is home to some of the most prized wild salmon, but they only come our way for a few brief weeks. The one being served (for $32) tonight at Lure Fishbar couldn’t be more basic. Chef Josh Capon grills the fish very simply, and then plates it with plump, earthy morels, crispy peas, and asparagus. “Copper River salmon is truly the king of all salmon,” says Capon. “They are the oldest wild-salmon species caught today. And due to their long swim upriver, they have a very high fat content, because they store a lot of fat to make the trip. It has a much sweeter flesh that almost melts when it cooked.” Which is one reason Capon barely cooks it, getting out of the way as much as possible so as to let its extraordinary flavor come through.