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Five Nights in Queens

There was a time when just the words "Queens Restaurant Week" would have provoked laughter. But those days are no more: Beyond its cornucopia of dirt-cheap ethnic eats, the Big Borough hosts a range of good restaurants, many of which are offering three-course dinner specials for $19.86, starting tonight. There's a full list of participating eateries here, but there are only five nights to take advantage of the deal. Our choices are as follows.