With shows coming to a close, Sari Sloane, Intermix’s VP of fashion merchandising, recapped her favorite picks from the week. She loved Calvin Klein’s attention to detail, Zac Posen’s fairytale gowns, Proenza’s jewel tone, and Matthew Williamson’s boho tops.
While bows tend to be ultrafeminine embellishments, designers are transforming them into sleek, urban additions on the runway this week. Proenza Schouler swept a chic white bow atop a traditional silk white blouse, while Thakoon tied a printed pattern variation around Coco Rocha’s navy belted coat. Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs fastened his knot front and center for a new spin on the classic black cocktail dress at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Come fall, we’ll be fit to be tied.
Proenza Schouler's fall collection delighted critics, even as they considered the clothes too unattainable for all but the designers' "socialite pals." Carolina Herrera's equestrian theme led to accusations of "costumery," Cathy Horyn is a powerful advocate for the resurrected Halston line, and Oscar de la Renta may be contemplating inaugural gowns. Our review roundup has the rest.
Tights have been a fall staple for years (just ask Lindsay Lohan). But the black leggings of the past are getting a colorful new makeover for fall. Erin Fetherston paired her simple black flats with blue nylons, while Proenza Schouler used mustard-yellow tights to set off emerald-green heels. Nicole Miller went the furthest, showing tights that were not only colored (maroon) but also patterned. Go ahead, girls, and show off your legs whatever the hue.
• Wall Street hopes Hillary has a super Super Tuesday, but private equity is standing by one of its own. Fourth-quarter campaign-financing reports show Senator Clinton taking in the lion’s share of donations from the Street’s top ten financial firms. Meanwhile, Bain Capital co-founder Mitt Romney is still tops among the PE crowd. [NYT/Dealbook]
• So, what’s it gonna be, boy? Stuck between Microsoft’s rock and Google’s hard place, Yahoo! CEO Jerry Yang has limited options for saving his company at his disposal. [NYP]
• If you believe the latest hype, Citadel is paving the way for an IPO after all. Ken Griffin’s asset-management firm has split its proprietary hedge-fund business from its client-based options-making business. “Legally, it makes it cleaner,” said Josh Galper in an interview. [Bloomberg]
Monday was a mixed bag of no-brainer casting and compelling new faces. Runway veteran Anja Rubik lead the Oscar show. But Anna Gushina, who just debuted at Prada in September, generated significant buzz by winning Proenza Schouler’s coveted first spot.
While digging around in our bags for our precious Proenza Schouler seat-assignment cards, we suddenly looked up and noticed that the space around us — formerly teeming with fashionistas — had cleared suspiciously quickly.
There can be a tendency to question the worthiness of anyone young, adorable, and declared a pet by the entire fashion community. Perhaps this is why Jack McCullogh and Lazaro Hernandez, the young and adorable fashion-world darlings behind Proenza Schouler, work so very hard to deliver, season after season, collections that are well considered, beautifully executed, and always, always pushing their very specific vision forward.
Recent FIT graduate Javier Cruz is on the prowl for Anna Wintour at Fashion Week. “Help me like you helped Proenza Schouler,” he would plead if he saw her. To catch the editor’s eye, Cruz relies on his equestrian influences and an ascot. See if he’ll pass muster with Wintour by watching the Video Look Book.
Video Look Book: Javier Cruz
Natalia, Sasha, Jessica, Gemma — we all know the runways' favorite girls. But every Fashion Week brings a crop of fresh faces. From a former cross-country star to the new face of Nina Ricci, here’s who will be dominating the New York catwalks this February.
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Ford's Supermodel of the World competition last year launched model Chanel Iman (who was a runner-up) into the freezing, barely breathable atmosphere of the modeling world. Since then she's modeled for Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, and Derek Lam, among many others. She was also featured on the cover of Vogue last year in an homage to fashion's new supermodels. So anyone who says the annual Ford contest isn't a ticket to stardom is just plain wrong. Click above to view some backstage video of this year's competition and model interviews with New York's Jada Yuan.
Ford Supermodel of the World [NYM Video]
His self-titled debut record may be one of the only music-business success stories this year, but members of the National Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences just couldn't bring themselves to nominate Chris Daughtry for Album of the Year today.
Earlier this week in their clever guest blog for the Times, Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez interviewed photographer Terry Richardson.
There used to be a hard line between the word of art photography and fashion photography. You seem to have disregarded this boundary. One day we’ll swing by PS1 and see a huge installation of your work, and the next day we’ll open French Vogue and see a story you have shot. Have these traditional boundaries ever meant anything to you?
Richardson gave a lame answer, and we wished we heard more about the increasingly blurred line between fashion and art photography. What an interesting and timely subject to ask about! We didn't have to wait long, though. Today, Guy Trebay tackles that exact topic in "Thursday Styles." With interviews from Christie's experts, an editor at W, and a gallery curator, Trebay really blows it up. For which we are, of course, very appreciative. Both for the art lesson, and for the knowledge that it's fully okay to recycle ideas from your own company.
Work With Me Baby [NYT]
For the Moment [NYT]
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We just got a look at the Ssäm Bar New Year’s Eve party, and while we won’t be attending (that $300 is earmarked for a new car), we have to say that it looks pretty impressive. For your three bills, you get open bar (beer, sake and wine only), plus Champagne (but for how long?), and, in the food department, such Ssäm standbys as artisanal-ham plates, aged steak, and a slow-cooked pork butt, d.b.a. Bo Ssäm usually $180 when you order it on the menu. We still can't figure out the economics of Ssäm Bar, but given Chang's resistance to moneymaking (through expansion, cookbooks, etc.), we doubt he's looking to make much money. And if the “unlimited beer, wine, and sake” really are unlimited, the Soupman could well end up on the red side of the ledger.
David Chang's New Year's PartyREAD MORE »
• Is Jon Stewart really the only late-night host not currently covering the salaries of his laid-off, non-striking employees? [Mixed Media/Portfolio]
• The key lines from the n+1 essay that helped convinced Choire Sicha and Emily Gould to quit: "The purpose of Gawker Media was always to improve on the print publishing business model. It was never, as the content of Gawker sometimes seemed to suggest, to produce critiques of the waste that model created. The content at Gawker, like most Condé Nast titles, is a service to the advertisers. … You could say that as Gawker Media grew, from Gawker's success, Gawker outlived the conditions for its existence." Joshua David Stein announced his own departure, due mostly to personal loyalty, on Saturday. [n+1, Media Mob/NYO]
• Meanwhile, Portfolio's Jeff Bercovici proves that Condé and Gawker really are at the same level: "By the way, those who feel wronged by Gawker over the years can take some satisfaction in the uniquely terrible timing of the walkout for Denton, who is pumped full of painkillers after a recent back injury. Last week, the pain became so intense he needed an ambulance to get to the hospital. As he was being loaded into the ambulance, he says, his greatest fear was that he would be spotted by someone from Gawker, which is headquartered just down the block from his home." [Mixed Media/Portfolio]
You may have seen a bunch of renderings of potential designs for the land above the Hudson Yards in this morning's papers. But as one of the teams' lead architects pointed out to us, "The challenge is, your eye immediately goes to the buildings, but it's unlikely any of the buildings are going to look like this. That's the challenge to the MTA, to boil down fundamental issues for the public." So instead, we're giving you one of the images that probably will find its way into reality if its team is selected — one for the long, narrow green space looking eastward from the Durst/Vornado proposal. That might just be the glass arc over the proposed Moynihan Station that you see in the distance. But meanwhile, what is Red Sox pitcher Curt Schilling doing in the foreground on the right? —Alec AppelbaumRelated:The Next 'West' Thing [NYP]
Five Companies Bid to Remake Six Blocks of Hudson Yards Area [NYDN]
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Yesterday we reported that Yolato is poised to infiltrate the Empire State Building and other strategic locations around the city. Now none other than founder Donald Park tells us that he’s aiming for a minimum of fifteen to twenty outlets in the next year, including at least one Downtown Brooklyn outlet. The outer boroughs, people! The guy means business! What’s more, he’s planning to announce “a very large deal with a very large company” in the next few weeks. You know what that means — Yolato is going national.