Every year we wonder: Is this when people stop caring about Project Runway? Judging from the clamor in and around the tents this morning (we could hear them shouting, "Rami! Rami!" from a block away), we believe the answer is no.
With shows coming to a close, Sari Sloane, Intermix’s VP of fashion merchandising, recapped her favorite picks from the week. She loved Calvin Klein’s attention to detail, Zac Posen’s fairytale gowns, Proenza’s jewel tone, and Matthew Williamson’s boho tops.
We almost made it through Fashion Week without a model fall. The surprise, when one finally came at Zac Posen, was that it wasn't a newbie who took the plunge, but runway vet Karen Elson — as she was closing the show, no less. Brazilian bombshell Caroline Trentini helped her up, with help from Sean John (as Diddy/Puffy/Sean Combs is now calling himself) who chivalrously stepped onto the runway to extend a hand. Maybe he's a gentleman after all. Elson later came out smiling with Posen for his bow. —Kendall Herbst
Francisco Costa, the designer at Calvin Klein, takes his mandate as New York's minimalist-in-chief quite seriously. His commitment to the line is admirable: Each of the looks in today's collection could've been cut with laser. The palette was navy, black, and gray; any bits of flash were subdued, in some cases beneath a layer of sheer cashmere.
Perhaps giddy from the unseasonable weather, critics were warm to Michael Kors and Rodarte and practically red-hot with lust for Marchesa and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Consider these adjectives (used in reviews) in order of increasing positivity: “almost camp,” “high-polish,” and “exuberant.” Find out which designer drove critics to the thesaurus in our review roundup.
Vera Wang's ready-to-wear collection is, unlike her bridal and red-carpet pieces, intensely personal. Wang has spent her entire adult life obsessed with fashion, and these are the clothes she wants to make because she dreamed them.
Throughout the week, the buyers from Bird, Intermix, Henri Bendel, and Oak will tell us which runway looks they plan on stocking. In today’s installment, Bird owner Jen Mankins loves the accessories at Phillip Lim, the colors at Zero + Maria Cornejo, and the party dresses at Behnaz Sarafpour.
There was something really special about Zero Maria Cornejo's show yesterday afternoon, held in the designer's new, unfinished store on Bleecker Street. We were far away from the tents, it was balmy outside, and inside, the white-box space was simple and lovely, with daylight streaming in the windows. We were already feeling fuzzy, and that was before the clothes even appeared — though once they did, we were a little mesmerized.
Fashion can be mercilessly fickle: Designers are quite often dismissed just as soon as they're discovered. So thank God for Derek Lam, who has slowly, methodically, and quietly worked his way toward a collection that is now a mainstay of what we consider American fashion.
Much of the blondest hair in New York can be found in the front row at a Michael Kors fashion show. Kors, who is a master of the campy one-liner, is something of a court designer to those women who are so fortunate as to maintain a nutty brown complexion twelve months a year without ever visiting a tanning salon. He knows exactly how to show off those Palm Beach tans and blonde, blonde hair, making them shine and making them look their best.
Louis Terline, co-owner of the Brooklyn boutique Oak, took time away from the tents to share his favorites from the week so far. What’s he looking at for next fall’s inventory? He likes Betsey Johnson’s hot shorts, Yigal’s rich fabrics, and Marc by Marc’s leather dresses.
While bows tend to be ultrafeminine embellishments, designers are transforming them into sleek, urban additions on the runway this week. Proenza Schouler swept a chic white bow atop a traditional silk white blouse, while Thakoon tied a printed pattern variation around Coco Rocha’s navy belted coat. Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs fastened his knot front and center for a new spin on the classic black cocktail dress at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Come fall, we’ll be fit to be tied.
James Jackson, the superintedent of the 69th Regent Armory on 26th and Lexington, is accused of soliciting over $30,000 in bribes from Marc Jacobs and other vendors to ensure their ability to hold shows in the cavernous, medieval-looking space. The Armory is used for high-end events like Jacobs' shows and Vogue's Seventh on Sale charity shopping event, though Vogue hasn't yet been included on the list of purported victims (perhaps Jackson fears Anna Wintour as much as we do).
Proenza Schouler's fall collection delighted critics, even as they considered the clothes too unattainable for all but the designers' "socialite pals." Carolina Herrera's equestrian theme led to accusations of "costumery," Cathy Horyn is a powerful advocate for the resurrected Halston line, and Oscar de la Renta may be contemplating inaugural gowns. Our review roundup has the rest.
New York’s Jada Yuan took cameras backstage at Monique Lhuillier to capture the preparations for the designer’s flapper-inspired show. The makeup artist sought “poetic glamour” with you guessed it a smoky eye. The hairstylist nixed short-haired girls. And the designer herself had a preshow freak-out that lasted five days. Watch the video to see the drama for yourself.
Video: Backstage at Monique Lhuillier [NYM Video]