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Debacle at the Russian Tea Room; Neroni Wins a Rave

The Russian Tea Room must be sorry they hassled Frank Bruni over a bottle of wine. [NYT] Peter Meehan finds the ribs at the Smoke Joint “passable.” [NYT] A rave for Grub Street pen pal Jason Neroni at Porchetta — “thought-provoking but mouthwatering as well.” [NYS] Not a review, strictly speaking, but Cuozzo slams Varietal for their use of a toxic bean, finds the wine list “heavy on obscure and mediocre selections, like sour-tasting Tasmanian pinot noir.” [NYP] Best sardines ever at Brooklyn’s Sample, “a geography class for gourmands.” [NYDN] Chez Lola is an “incredibly sexy, glamorous and inventive melding of an art deco bar and eclectic antique shop,” and the food is pretty good too. [New York Press]

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Breaking News: Beloved Biscuit to Be Reborn

It was a sad day a couple of years back when Sample chef and co-owner Josh Cohen closed Biscuit, his Park Slope barbecue restaurant. By now, you may have gotten over it. Which makes this an extra-special surprise: Biscuit is coming back. On Monday, Cohen finalized plans to convert Night and Day, at 230 Fifth Avenue (not to be confused with 230 Fifth Avenue, the Manhattan restaurant), into a bigger and better version of Biscuit, scheduled to open on October 30. His slow-smoked pork, spareribs, point-cut brisket, and chicken, along with other southern standards like fried chicken and u-peel-'em shrimp, will all be making a triumphant return. There will also be a full bar and blues and bluegrass music. "I think we have a chance to really do Biscuit right this time," Cohen told us. Hey, we liked it the last time.

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