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Sheng Wang

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Love Gets No Love From Bruni; Strong Falls in Love With Self at Cafe Cluny

Bruni shares Platt's horror over Lonesome Dove's "hairy and scary" welcome mat and agrees the "mistakes don't end at the front door." For one, the quail quesadillas and rabbit empanadas taste like, well, chicken. Still, it's not all bluster: "Mr. Love seems dedicated to getting first-rate cuts of meat, and if the rub-happy kitchen goes overboard in seasoning them, especially with salt and pepper, it certainly knows how to cook many of them." [NYT] Forget the two-hour rule at Ramsay at the London: Paul Adams fumes over getting bum-rushed at Goblin Market: "When a place goes to such lengths to make it clear that they don't want customers, I for one am glad to oblige." [NYS] At David Burke's Hawaiian Tropic Zone, the dishes taste "like they came from a war zone, not a tropic zone." But then again "at a human zoo like this, the quality of the food just doesn't matter." [TONY]